Italy Road Trip Part III: Tuscany, Lake Garda, Verona, and more

The drive through Tuscany was stunning -- rolling hills for miles and miles. As we passed more and more signs for vineyards and wineries, we started to get really excited.

We stopped in the small town of Greve in Chianti for lunch and do some shopping at the town’s quaint stores.

After lunch, we headed to the Castello di Verrazzano estate for a guided tour of the winery and a tasting. Our guide was very informative and humorous, and we really enjoyed the experience. The grounds were gorgeous and since we were visiting at the beginning of the harvest, we had the opportunity to see some interesting things. While we were there, they were in the process of harvesting the grapes for their dessert wine. We got to see all of the grapes hanging from the ceiling in preparation. It was really cool. The tasting was also really great. The wines were all very good quality. We got to try a white wine, a rose, and two reds. We also tried the wines with delicious cheese, bread, and olive oil, as our guide informed us that different foods changes the taste of the wines, as well. It was really interesting and we all really enjoyed it.

For dinner, we decided to put together a picnic to take back to our hotel. We grabbed some bread and cheese, delicious balsamic glaze, and some fruit and nuts. Oh, and of course, wine! Our hotel was nestled in the hills and the rooms had balconies with stunning views of the landscape. It was a really lovely evening to enjoy outside on our balcony.

The next morning, we were up early to head in the direction of Verona. On our way, we stopped at Sirmione, a town located on Lake Garda, a stunning lake that is a favorite resort area for both Germans and Italians. The town was so quaint and the views of the lake were wonderful. It was really crowded, though – definitely a favorite tourist spot! We had a lovely lunch outside, then walked around to take some photos and do some shopping.

In the late afternoon, we continued the drive to Verona. I have to admit, Verona really exceed everyone’s expectations. It was so romantic – and not just because it is the setting of Romeo and Juliet! The squares throughout the city were very picturesque – so many beautiful buildings. We had a really nice time strolling through the streets before dinner. The city also has a famous arena (a large amphitheater), which is similar to Rome’s Colosseum, but on a smaller scale. It was built in 30 AD and is the third largest in Italy. Pretty impressive! They still perform shows inside the arena today. In fact, some of our friends visited Verona this summer and went to a performance of Romeo and Juliet at the Arena. Later on, we enjoyed a delicious meal outside. It was pasta again (surprise, surprise), but the food was delicious, albeit slow – even for Italy’s standards! The weather was very pleasant though, and we really enjoyed the atmosphere.

After breakfast the next morning, we got back in the car for our final leg of the trip. We were on our way back to Munich, but not before driving through the Alps and making pit stops at Garmisch and Linderhof. The weather was beautiful and very clear, so we were also treated to some absolutely breathtaking views of the Alps during this drive.

Garmisch is a popular mountain resort town in Bavaria. People come here to ski in the winter and hike in the summer. Also nearby is Germany’s highest peak, Zugspitze, which Matt and I both visited back in 2011. Garmisch also hosted the winter Olympics in 1936. I’m not sure if we were just in the wrong area or what, but the town itself was a bit underwhelming. We did however, enjoy a lovely Greek meal for lunch, which gave us the sustenance we needed to sightsee at the Linderhof Palace.

Linderhof Palace is one of crazy King Ludwig II’s famous palaces. King Ludwig II built several elaborate palaces throughout Bavaria – most of which he never really used. Neuschwanstein (the inspiration for Disney’s castle) is the most famous of course, but Linderhof is also very special in its own right. Although the size does not compare, it is easy to see that Versailles was the inspiration for Linderhof. There are only 4 real rooms within the palace, but each one was decorated elaborately and spectacularly with many opulent details. The gardens on the grounds are also very beautiful. The most unique part of the palace however, in my opinion, is the “Venus Grotto.” The Venus Grotto is a completely artificial cave, built on the grounds of the palace. The “décor” inside was inspired by a scene from a Wagner opera. The main purpose of the grotto was to be a stage, or theater, of sorts for all kinds of performances. It was also very technologically advanced for its time – electrical lighting was in use, as well as a rudimentary heating system. Really impressive, but also a colossal waste of the royal family’s money! Could explain why King Ludwig II mysteriously “drowned” at the age of 41, when he was known to be a strong swimmer. So much intrigue in these royal families!

When we were done touring and palace and the grounds, our trip was pretty much concluded, and we headed back to Munich to relax for a few days. We had a wonderful time in Italy. So many beautiful sights, so much delicious pizza, pasta, gelato, and wine. And of course, quality time with Mom and Dad Shoaf! Another wonderful trips in the books.

Italy Roadtrip Part II: Florence

On Sunday, we checked out of our hotel and headed to our next stop: Florence. We also visited Florence back in 2010 and really fell in love with the city. We found it to be similar to Rome, but much more manageable. There are about 370,000 inhabitants, so it’s a decent size, but not overwhelmingly large. The people seem a bit friendlier, it is cleaner, and the city itself is really beautiful. There are so many picturesque squares throughout the city center.

After (mostly) painlessly finding a parking spot, we checked into our hotel, dropped our bags off and headed for our first mission: to find lunch. We ate at the cutest panini shop. All of the bread, meats, and cheeses were high-quality and locally sourced from small vendors. They also had some delicious spreads: olives, eggplant, onion, etc. The men making the sandwiches were also super friendly and helpful when we asked questions about what toppings would go best together. It was one of the best, if not the best, panini I have ever had! With our hunger satisfied, we were ready to sight-see.

We made sure to visit some of the most popular sights in Venice, including the Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiori), which is the large domed cathedral in the city. The fresco on the inside of the dome is really stunning. We also strolled through some of the city’s most popular squares: ….. We also “window-shopped” through Florence’s famous street market. Though we didn’t buy any leather goods (the market’s specialty), we did a good deal on some scarves! In the late afternoon, we walked across the Ponte Vecchio and over the Arno river. Although this bridge is very crowded with tourists, it is one of our favorite parts of the city. The small shops that line both sides of it make it look so unique. I’ve still never seen another quite like it!

We continued on (and up) to the Piazza Michaelangelo, where we were treated to stunning views of the entire city and rolling Tuscan hills in the distance.

Since the walk up involves quite a few steps, we decided to take a local bus back down to the city center. We missed the first one because we assumed we could buy tickets on the bus – not so. Once we found where to purchase the tickets, we had to wait for the next bus. As we watched the expected arrival time standstill, and the group of pushy tourists that was waiting for it with us grow, we decided we needed an alternative plan. We decided to walk back down the steps and stop for refreshments at a wine bar at the bottom. Best plan ever. We all enjoyed some bruschetta and delicious Italian wine while we rested for a bit. Soon after, it was time to head to dinner. We had a really nice dinner with lots of pasta: Gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce, lasagna, ravioli in an eggplant sauce, and spaghetti with artichokes in a spicy tomato sauce. Delicious!

On our second day in Florence, we checked out the city’s indoor food market. It reminded us a lot of Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia, but with Italian gourmet specialties everywhere. Upstairs, there were some cool cafes and bars. This area had a more modern and hip vibe – it was very cool. I liked how the first level of the market was traditional, but the upstairs was modern. It was a great way to incorporate two very different aspects of the “foodie” scene. Next, we explored the Oltarno district of the city – this is where many of the city’s artisans have small shops and boutiques. We enjoyed admiring many of the unique goods. After that, We stumbled upon a great lunch spot and tried some different dishes: a spaghetti dish with olive oil and red pepper, a veggie Panini with a specialty mozzarella cheese, and a Panzanella-type salad. After lunch, we embarked on a walking tour that featured stories about the Medici family in Florence. The tales were pretty interesting, though I don’t see what fun it is to be the most powerful family when everyone is just trying to kill you. At one point, they extended their palace over the Ponte Vecchio, just so they could get to the other side of the city without having to leave the palace. This was all done because so many people were trying to kill them. Crazy!

We finished our time in Florence with a wonderful dinner. The waitress was friendly and the food was fantastic. They are famous for pear pasta (pasta filled with pear in a cream sauce) – Kristin ordered it and it was delicious! They also had an outstanding cheesecake. It was a great evening out.

The next morning, we got back on the road and headed to explore the rolling hills of Tuscany.

Italy Roadtrip Part I: The Dolomites and Venice

In mid-September, Mom and Dad Shoaf spent some time with us here in Europe. They flew into Munich and on their second day, we departed for a roadtrip through Italy. We kicked it off by stopping in Mittenwald for lunch. Mittenwald is a picturesque Bavarian town nestled in the Alps. Neither of us had been before, and we were all pleasantly surprised by its quaintness. Although the weather was wet and chilly, we had a light lunch and did a little bit of souvenir shopping – only to stretch our legs, of course! ;)

After our brief stop, we got back on the road. We drove quite a few hours on the first day, but it wasn’t all bad, as we were treated to some stunning views of the Dolomites. The Dolomites are technically part of the Alps, though they look quite different from most of the mountains we have seen in Germany and Austria. It was a bit foggy at times, but we still managed to get a few good photos. Admittedly, the drive was a bit stomach-turning, what with all of the hair-pin turns, but it was definitely worth it.

We had dinner on the road at a rest stop on the Italian highway – not gourmet dining, but it is always interesting to see how different countries and cultures handle normal, everyday things such as these. For example, you won’t find any burgers or fries at the Italian rest stops; instead, it was mostly panini and pizza. Also, it is worth noting that every stop we visited had a coffee bar. The Italians truly love their espresso.

We arrived late at our first hotel, located in the city of Padua, which is a short drive from Venice. The next morning, we were up early to catch a quick 30-minute bus into Venice. When we first visited Venice in 2010, we stayed at a small place within the city itself. But we greatly preferred this method, since we didn’t have to worry about finding parking or dragging luggage through the crowded streets (and countless bridges) of Venice. It was drizzling a bit when we arrived, but the day quickly cleared up and we had a gorgeous Saturday. First things first: we made sure to stop at a café for coffee right when we arrived. Throughout the day, we did a lot of strolling around and photographing. Though very crowded and admittedly very touristy, Venice does not disappoint when it comes to Kodak moments. Window shopping is also a treat here, thanks to all of the shops selling the beautiful and famous Murano glass. We finished the day with a delicious pasta dinner and of course—gelato! We took our chances at a random (to us) gelato place, but we were not disappointed! I checked the reviews later, and we happened upon one of the highest-rated in all of Venice. A great start to our time in Italy!