The infamous Brandenburg Gate
Anyways, Matt and I traveled to Berlin, the capital of Germany last weekend. For those of you who are unfamiliar with German geography, Berlin is located in the eastern part of the country. We traveled there by train -- a 7-hour train to be exact. *Commence gasps from those who were completely unaware that Germany is so large* (This used to be me, as well) Yes, 7 hours. The train takes a little longer than driving because of the round-about path through some other larger towns, but I still think it would take about 5 1/2 hours to drive it. So it is indeed pretty far from Munich. The train ride wasn't so bad, despite the group of 30-ish Germans sneering and giggling at Matt's "Dein Spiegel," a German children's magazine. (Really?? You're going to laugh at us for trying to learn your language? Whatever...)
We arrived late Thursday evening and stayed until late Sunday afternoon. Berlin is pretty inexpensive when compared to Munich. Our hotel was a bargain (60 USD a night for a 4-star hotel!!) and our meals were relatively inexpensive. On our first full day in the nation's capital (feels funny to say that and not be talking about D.C...), we started with a walking tour of the city. The weather was gorgeous all weekend, but it was freezing. We bundled up and the interesting historical facts (and some humor) made the tour fly by. Our guide showed us some of the most notable sites in this very remarkable city. She made a statement that I really think describes Berlin's character perfectly (paraphrasing here a bit): "You may say Berlin is a beautiful city, and I won't agree with you. I won't disagree with you, but I won't agree with you. Berlin is not really beautiful, but it is a city of contrasts." This couldn't be more true. It's not a beautiful city like Paris or Munich, but it is beautiful in it's own way. There are some buildings whose original structures date back to the 1200s, and there are stark examples of Communist architecture from the 1950s. But that's the beauty of Berlin. What incredible history this city has. The tour touched on many points in Berlin's history, and not just WWII or the great West/East divide. For example, did you know that Berlin was the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia? Or that in the 1600s, nearly 15,000 persecuted Huguenots from France sought asylum here? Or that Napoleon (yes, THAT Napoleon) marched here in 1806, but allowed Berlin to independently govern themselves? Pretty interesting stuff. Of course, we are most interested in the WWII and Berlin Wall historical periods. Much of Hitler's rise to power and subsequent fall unfolded right here. We saw the buildings where he and his highest appointed leaders had their offices. We stood facing the steps where he stood to give some of his most famous speeches. We stood on the sidewalk above the bunker where he killed himself (now completely filled in and sealed to prevent any Neo-Nazi shrines). It's all pretty surreal.
One of the museums on "Museum Island"
You can still see bullet holes from WWII in these pillars...crazy
There is a really fantastic "museum" (more of just tons of boards with facts, quotes, and some documentation) called The Topography of Terror. It outlines Hitler's rise to power, how he maintained power through terror and fear, and the effects. It was so fascinating. I think we spent about 90 minutes there reading everything, but we honestly could have spent almost twice as much time. I think there are a lot of misconceptions about this time period and I always am interested in learning more. The only way to avoid repeating history is to learn about it.
We also saw remnants of the Berlin Wall, of course, and some of the other notable sites related to that time period, as well. There isn't much of it that still stands today, just a small piece near the Topography of Terror exhibit and a larger stretch on the east side of the city. The stretch near the Topography exhibit was left in tact as it lines the street that was basically the Nazi headquarters in Berlin (that same building is a tax office today, go figure). The stretch in the eastern part of the city is known as the "East Side Gallery," where artists have graffiti-ed works onto small sections. Some of the artwork is just plain bizarre (in my 100% un-artistic point of view), but some of it is really cool and really makes you think. It was also "fun" to be able to translate the ones with German phrases on them (bonus of learning a new language!).
As many of you may know, the Berlin Wall was erected by the Soviets as a way to prevent Germans residing in the Marxist-Leninist German Democratic Republic in the East from escaping to the West, which was controlled by the Americans, French, and British. On Sunday, we visited the DDR (Deutsche Demokratische Republik) Museum, which is an interactive museum that attempts to show daily life in East Germany during this period. It was pretty cool. We got to see a Trabi, the infamous, super basic and inexpensive automobile of this era. We also read about education, employment, media, shopping, home life, travel, etc. It was a really interesting perspective. It also made it easier to understand why some people who lived through this period often refer to these times as "the good old days." At first, that statement sounds appalling. These people were trapped by the GDR. Every aspect of their lives were restricted in some way. I mean, 136 individuals died trying to escape to West Germany. But on the other hand, everyone had jobs, homes, and other resources. When the wall came down, unemployment in Germany skyrocketed. I certainly don't think that anyone actually wanted to keep the wall up and the GDR in place, but for some, there were benefits during this period. It's just another point of view that really makes you think.
These plaques are throughout the city marking where the wall once stood (Mauer is the German word for wall)
Checkpoint Charlie, one of the checkpoints that you had to pass through when traveling between the East and the West
A section of the wall that is still standing. It's protected by a fence now because too many people were chipping off parts of it to take with them
A Trabi that you can rent by the hour
On Sunday, we also enjoyed a bit of modern Berlin by visiting the Reichstag building, where Germany's "parliament" meets (think Congress in D.C.). The building itself (or parts of it, rather) has been standing since the very late 1800s. It suffered a great deal of damage from a fire in 1933. When the Nazi regime took over, the building was abandoned, as Hitler was able to (legally) orchestrate the transfer of all government power to himself. After WWII, Germany was split up by the Allied forces, so naturally, there was still no need for a German parliament. Consequently, the Reichstag sat damaged and unused until German reunification in 1990. The Reunification ceremony was actually held at the Reichstag building. With the re-installment of a unified German democracy, the building underwent reconstruction, which was completed in 1999. The current building showcases both old and new features -- the most exceptional new feature being the huge glass dome on the roof. For free, visitors can enter the building and walk along the ramp inside the dome. We did just that and it was awesome. A great way to see the entire city of Berlin on our final day of the trip.
The Reichstag (unfortunately, the dome is not visible from this photo. You can Google it if you're interested)
While we enjoyed more than our fair share of history in Berlin, this city is more than it's past. It's present is certainly interesting, as well. It's a much more diverse city than Munich, for sure. We particularly enjoyed many of the different cuisines offered. Munich tends to have more "watered down" versions. We did enjoy one German dinner at a place called "Maultaschen Manufaktur." They specialize in unique ravioli from Schwabia, which is a region located in the southwest part of Germany. "Maul" translates to "mouth," but specifically an animal mouth and "Tasche" is used for "bag," "pocket," and food with stuff inside, i.e. raviolis, pastry dough with filling, etc. They were delicious! We also had currywurst one day for lunch, which is a special sausage with a curry-spiced sauce. Currywurst is popular in Munich, as well, but as Berlin is "known" for it, we had to try it here, as well. We also enjoyed a dinner at a Spanish tapas place and a lunch at a California-inspired burrito joint. That place was seriously awesome! For one breakfast, we discovered a cute cafe that was opened by a woman originally from Seattle. Matt had a bomb bagel and I had some delicious granola and yogurt. We even returned the following day to try some of the American desserts. Check out the cake sampler we ordered... Delicious!
Yummy breakfast
Currywurst at Curry 36
Cake, cake, cake!!
Gratuitous "Matt with beer" pic (hat hair)
We boarded the train on Sunday afternoon and made the (very long) 7 hour journey back to Munich. We were home and in bed before midnight. It was a fantastic weekend, but we were exhausted and glad to be back in our warm beds.
Next up, Vienna in one week!!
Cheers,
Matt and Kristin
P.S. Goal for future travels: Make sure to capture at least one photo with BOTH of us in it haha



